Photos of Majorcan Wineries

Here are the photos of our trip to the Majorcan wineries in Binissalem. I think I have finally found a bottle of wine I won't be able to finish in one evening! Anyone want to help?









At the C'an Novell winery, you can bring your own bottles and fill them directly from these huge casks made from olive wood and oak. The 4 liter bottles in buckets (so they are easier to carry) cost 6 euros, with 4 euros returned when you bring the bottle and bucket back for a refill! Okay!








The cellar master didn't want to be photographed, but took our picture in front of the vats to show the massiveness of these wine casks. Note the hose which leads to the spigot where you fill your bottles. Oh yeah, I'm relocating!

More photos from Majorca. Can you guess the theme?

Hope this makes you hungry and thirsty!





A small selection of Spanish wines in the supermercado....note the prices, some as low as 2.35 euros, and we bought wines for 1 euro and they were awesome. I might be relocating!













Hundreds of legs of jamon in the supermercado.


Olives of every description, along with garlic, anchovies, capers and cornichons are available at the farmers' markets in Pollenca and Port a Pollenca each week. Did I mention relocating??










This picturesque fellow is the head butcher at the farmers' market. He selects and slices the huge legs of jamon and suggests the best sobrasessa, a local sausage made only in Majorca. Never argue with a guy who looks like this and wields a really, really big knife!













Beautiful fruits and vegetables grown on local farms fill the markets. We really enjoyed the variety and the intense flavors of the grapes, tomatoes, melons, herbs and peaches. I'll be sending my new address......

Photos from Majorca

Oliver, Robyn and Elliot Millman with Charlie on the beach at Port de Pollensa.






















Charlie carving our Jamon de Serrano. Note the special holder just for these huge legs of ham.


The Roman ruins at Alcudia from about 80 BC.















Cape Formentor at the end of the Baha de Pollenca. Charlie cycled out to this famous landmark over several steep hills and serpentine curves. Awesome!

Land of Olives, Wine and Marcona Almonds

The weekly farmers’ markets follow a circuit around the island, with the largest in our part of Majorca on Sunday in Pollenca and Wednesday in Port de Pollenca. The markets are usually set up in the main plaza of the town, often in the shadow of the church.

While fresh fruit and vegetables are a main draw, the market abounds in olives of every variety, nuts – the Marcona almonds are the best -, jamon y queso, and crafts and merchandise ranging from clothing and jewelry to Majorcan leather goods.

We’ve had a great time sampling a variety of hams and sausages made from Majorca’s famous black pigs. The jamon is cut fresh from the leg by the butcher for you, and its flavor depends on what the pigs were fed. The most expensive jamon can run as high as $150/kilo. We didn’t try that one!

With tourist season at a peak, the markets are jammed by 11 a.m., so we go early, then stop at a beachside café for zuma de naranja (fresh squeezed OJ) when the hoards arrive.

Speaking of the tourists, Majorca suffered from major overbuilding and lack of oversight for 3 decades, resulting in a plethora of hotels, tourist holiday resorts, and questionably built condos surrounded by tourist shops, restaurants and bars. Picture South Beach or Myrtle Beach on steroids. About 10 years ago, a change of government brought more control over building and a structured plan for growth. The recession helped slow development as well, although we certainly don’t see any signs of it now with the crowds that line the beach and fill the restaurants every day. The majority of tourists are British, German and Spanish, resulting in an amalgam of languages and menu offerings. Majorcans speak a unique form of Spanish called Mallorquin Catalan, which is quite different from the Spanish we’re used to. But most everyone in the tourist areas speaks English at some level, so we manage to communicate quite well.

Yesterday, Charlie and I took a drive to Binissalem, which is the heart of Majorcan wine production. The climate in Es Pla, the plain in the center of the island, is ideal for vineyards and the Majorcan reds are superb. With 95% of Majorcan wines consumed on the island, there is virtually no export market, so we are trying to enjoy as much as we can while here. ;-)

We stopped first at Jose Ferrer, a traditional winery, with tours and tasting room. Our next stop was memorable. In a warehouse on a narrow street near the church, Ca’n Novell is the only winery left on the island that still sells its wine a granel, which is straight from huge olive wood vats into whatever container you provide.

I discovered it is frowned upon, however, to lie under the tap with an open mouth!

In case you forget your container, there are stacks of 3-liter jugs set in buckets for easy carrying that can be purchased for 6 Euros, with 3 Euros refunded when you return the jug! We tasted the wine and it is outstanding, made with a blend of Manto Negro, Fogoneu and Callet grapes, all native to Majorca. The vats, pictured below, are olive wood ringed in a native oak and hold about 4000 liters each!

Charlie and I have often said we’ve never had a bad Spanish red, but when you can buy 3 liters for 3 Euros and it’s outstanding, well what more is there to say except “Cheers”.

Richard, Robyn’s husband, arrives tomorrow; then on Saturday, Robyn’s sister, Alex and her husband and three children arrive from their home in southern France. With 5 children in the flat, Robyn has wisely found us a separate flat in her complex so we can enjoy some “quiet time” whenever needed. We’re here until July 28^th, then off to France and our canal boat trip through Burgundy.

Stay tuned! Gracias for reading!

PS: Sorry, for some reason I am unable to add photos at this time, I'll try to send in a separate blog.

I am a very frustrated blogger!!!

Majorca – Island of Olives, Beaches, Tourists and Exquisite Scenery

Hola,

It’s been way too long since I wrote a blog, actually an entire country ago. No excuses, just having too much fun to sit at the Internet café and write, but guilt has taken hold, so here I am. I’m writing this at our lovely flat in Los Palmitos in Port de Pollenca on the north coast of the island of Majorca. When I get to the café, I’ll connect and blog this, so look for the photos which will all be grouped at the bottom, unless I figure out how to move them around.

Okay, nuts and bolts done.

Charlie and I have always loved Spain – the people, the food, the scenery, the culture and just about everything else…especially the wine! This is our third visit to Majorca, which lies 150 miles southeast of Barcelona and is the largest of the Balearic Islands. Now a major tourist destination for the rest of Europe, Majorca has a history that dates back 8000 years. Once a major Roman stronghold – see the photo of Roman ruins below – Majorca’s strategic position in the Mediterranean has led to its being conquered numerous times by everyone from the Phoenicians to Franco.

We arrived in Palma, the island’s largest city, drove across the island to Port de Pollenca and were in the pool within 2 hours of arrival! With Robyn and her sons, Oliver and Elliot, we’ve walked, swam, fished, shopped, read lots of books in the sun, eaten lovely fresh fruits and veggies from the weekly farmer’s market, found excellent Spanish reds for as low as 1 Euro (about $1.45), carved our own leg of jamon de Serrano, discovered fabulous Majorcan cheeses and enjoyed perfect weather.

Charlie has cycled over 300 miles around the island, which is quite mountainous and full of narrow, winding roads. He has conquered two of the toughest routes already, and is planning tomorrow’s ride as I write. Majorca is a training base for the Tour de France, so he was able to rent a bike as good as his and find excellent support, maps and advice from the local bike shop, whose mechanic used to be with Lance Armstrong’s team.

The other day, Charlie and I toured the old town of Alcudia, which is still partly surrounded by the 800 year old walls and moat and is adjacent to the Roman ruins from 80 BC. The old town is filled with narrow sandstone streets, intriguing casas hidden behind wooden shutters and excellent cafes serving Majorcan specialties like pa amb oli, frit mallorqui and paella catalana. We felt at times as if we were on a movie set and half expected to see armored noblemen on Arabian horses ride through the city gates.

I am always amazed at the depth and breadth of the history and culture we find on our trips abroad. Just imagining how many people have walked into this town through these gates, and through the Roman city before that, is a bit mind boggling. Seems as if Majorca has always been a desired destination!

My next installment will explore the local farmers’ markets and Majorcan wine country.

Adios!

Riding in all kinds of ways

July 8, 2011

Okay all, we are trying the blog again-with photos.......er, maybe.

So it's Tuesday a.m. and I'm up at 5 am (yes, you non-believers, I can do it, I really can...besides, it's light at 4:30 a.m until 10:30 p.m. these days). So anyway, up with the birds and out the door by 6 a.m. - ON TIME! The drive from Yearsley to Upper Lambourn, where Libby's new horse lives and trains, is a combination of motorways (freeway), secondary roads and winding country lanes. We pass through York, Sheffield, Nottingham (yes, there was a sign for Robin Hood World), Derby, Leicester, Coventry and finally, Oxford as we traversed a good part of the country from north to south. Leaving the larger roads at Oxford, we began to see the gentle rolling hills of the thoroughbred district, very reminiscent of the Kentucky bluegrass country.


There are scores of stables and horse farms here, and Libby's is run by an ex-jockey who has won the national Sweepstakes - equivalent to our Triple Crown. Brendan greets us and soon we are being introduced to Uncle Keef (which I suggest we nickname UK). He's a large, beautiful horse who shows great potential. We drive up to the hilly fields to watch UK do his first ever "gallops" along the rails that run for miles through these lovely hills.

Well worth the early rising to see this! And the look on my usually very reserved British friend's face can only be described as intense joy, enormous pride and great relief. UK is a winner already.

As the "crazy American", I am entitled to ask a zillion questions about every aspect of training and racing; the other horses, whom I meet and am nuzzled by; the various kinds of competition - flats, jumps, dressage, show, and everything else I can think of. We have tea, then watch UK play for the very first time in the paddock yard. He's like a little child, showing wonder and curiosity at everything - including the drain, the neighboring horse and the dirt which he tries to roll in but isn't sure what to do when he gets himself down, so he pops back up again looking mystified.

On left, Jack, one of the stable boys, Libby, UK, Brendan and I. Hope to see more of these shots with Brendan, Libby and a big trophy sitting where I am. We bid a reluctant farewell and head north, with a stop for lunch and some high-end shopping near Bicester (pronounced Bisster). It began to rain about halfway home, so the weather was certainly on our side.

Charlie, in the meantime, was doing a leisurely 26 mile ride with Pete and his riding friends near Weatherby, which included some good hills and a mid morning stop for tea or coffee and cake, an early afternoon stop for a pub lunch of a pint and a pie, and a mid afternoon stop for tea. Certainly NOT his usual hard charging bike ride. But enjoyable and beautiful. He stayed with Pete & Val and they went for a fish & chips dinner. I do believe the calories out did not wipe out the calories in on this particular day.

The next day though, he made up for it by riding from Pete's to Libby's - about 35 miles in and out of rain showers. We met him for tea about halfway, then watched him pedal away past pastures full of sheep and sleepy English villages.

On Wednesday, we had a tour of St. Peter's, Oliver's boarding school - not quite Hogwarts, but not too far from the images we Yanks have of English boarding schools. All the students properly dressed in blazers and school ties but racing around like mad as it was the next to last day of the term.

We're back at Robyn's now until we leave for Majorca on Monday. Tonight we're out to an Indian Curry House, where I'm sure their version of mild will still be way hotter than I can tolerate.

Hope this arrives with photos....it took longer than expected to do, but at least I know how now....I think. Hope I don't forget by next time!

With hugs to all,
Lari & Charlie

Funny, there's no 4th of July Celebration here!!!!

July 3, 2011

Hi Everyone,

This is my first shot at the European blog, having forgotten everything I learned from the Lebanon blog, so bear with me. Yes, the bears are with me….but I digress.

We arrived safe and sound after your typical overcrowded transatlantic red-eye flight from Atlanta. I will comment on two things – the food was absolutely abysmal on the Delta flight. It’s almost as if they planned it that way, I mean how can anyone make a green salad taste like paper???? And the flight attendants really must have jumped out the rear emergency exit after take off, as we never saw them again until they literally threw our icy cold ?egg? muffins at us about 45 min. before we landed.

Oh well, we arrived, the bags arrived and the UK border officials waited until the next day to go on strike, so all in all, it was a “great” flight.

We were greeted by our beautiful English daughter, Robyn, and some sunny, but cool weather. Arrived at Marsdengate House, their 250 year old home perched in the center of incredibly green pastures, and began to remember how nice it is not to be in humidity!

The past week has been filled with end of term school activities for Robyn and Richard’s younger son, Elliot; excursions to town to shop, get e-mail set-up; cook some delicious dinners, and just enjoy being with our extended family here.

Yesterday we hiked along a roaring river to an old mill, then had a very posh dinner at an “upmarket” restaurant where R&R had celebrated their 40^th birthdays about 3 years ago. Since we couldn’t get over for the big party, they wanted to take us to the restaurant so we could have our personal celebration. So sweet!

Tomorrow, as most of you celebrate the 4^th of July, we will be having just another work/school day (yep, the kids go to school until July 7!!!). Charlie will be doing a day-long bike ride with Robyn’s uncle, Peter and I’ll be hanging out with Libby, Robyn’s mom who some of you met when she visited us last Christmas.

Today was brilliant – warm, sunny, dry. We all sat outside in shorts and read the Sunday Times! Tonight, Richard and I have cooked a huge Lebanese feast – he’s a great cook – which we will destroy in about 30 minutes.

That’s it for now, just wanted to set this up and send you all the blog address – lariandcharlieineurope@blogspot.com

Bye for now,

Lari