Land of Olives, Wine and Marcona Almonds

The weekly farmers’ markets follow a circuit around the island, with the largest in our part of Majorca on Sunday in Pollenca and Wednesday in Port de Pollenca. The markets are usually set up in the main plaza of the town, often in the shadow of the church.

While fresh fruit and vegetables are a main draw, the market abounds in olives of every variety, nuts – the Marcona almonds are the best -, jamon y queso, and crafts and merchandise ranging from clothing and jewelry to Majorcan leather goods.

We’ve had a great time sampling a variety of hams and sausages made from Majorca’s famous black pigs. The jamon is cut fresh from the leg by the butcher for you, and its flavor depends on what the pigs were fed. The most expensive jamon can run as high as $150/kilo. We didn’t try that one!

With tourist season at a peak, the markets are jammed by 11 a.m., so we go early, then stop at a beachside café for zuma de naranja (fresh squeezed OJ) when the hoards arrive.

Speaking of the tourists, Majorca suffered from major overbuilding and lack of oversight for 3 decades, resulting in a plethora of hotels, tourist holiday resorts, and questionably built condos surrounded by tourist shops, restaurants and bars. Picture South Beach or Myrtle Beach on steroids. About 10 years ago, a change of government brought more control over building and a structured plan for growth. The recession helped slow development as well, although we certainly don’t see any signs of it now with the crowds that line the beach and fill the restaurants every day. The majority of tourists are British, German and Spanish, resulting in an amalgam of languages and menu offerings. Majorcans speak a unique form of Spanish called Mallorquin Catalan, which is quite different from the Spanish we’re used to. But most everyone in the tourist areas speaks English at some level, so we manage to communicate quite well.

Yesterday, Charlie and I took a drive to Binissalem, which is the heart of Majorcan wine production. The climate in Es Pla, the plain in the center of the island, is ideal for vineyards and the Majorcan reds are superb. With 95% of Majorcan wines consumed on the island, there is virtually no export market, so we are trying to enjoy as much as we can while here. ;-)

We stopped first at Jose Ferrer, a traditional winery, with tours and tasting room. Our next stop was memorable. In a warehouse on a narrow street near the church, Ca’n Novell is the only winery left on the island that still sells its wine a granel, which is straight from huge olive wood vats into whatever container you provide.

I discovered it is frowned upon, however, to lie under the tap with an open mouth!

In case you forget your container, there are stacks of 3-liter jugs set in buckets for easy carrying that can be purchased for 6 Euros, with 3 Euros refunded when you return the jug! We tasted the wine and it is outstanding, made with a blend of Manto Negro, Fogoneu and Callet grapes, all native to Majorca. The vats, pictured below, are olive wood ringed in a native oak and hold about 4000 liters each!

Charlie and I have often said we’ve never had a bad Spanish red, but when you can buy 3 liters for 3 Euros and it’s outstanding, well what more is there to say except “Cheers”.

Richard, Robyn’s husband, arrives tomorrow; then on Saturday, Robyn’s sister, Alex and her husband and three children arrive from their home in southern France. With 5 children in the flat, Robyn has wisely found us a separate flat in her complex so we can enjoy some “quiet time” whenever needed. We’re here until July 28^th, then off to France and our canal boat trip through Burgundy.

Stay tuned! Gracias for reading!

PS: Sorry, for some reason I am unable to add photos at this time, I'll try to send in a separate blog.

I am a very frustrated blogger!!!